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Four and Half Ways to Control Aphids

Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010
In our last post, “Ladybugs Feast on the Most Common Garden Pests: Aphids” we discussed one of nature’s ways to combat the pesky aphid – the mighty ladybug. There are also a few other ways that you can mitigate aphid propagation.
 
1) Examine Your Plants then Prune or Blast with Water
Word on the street is that a single little aphid can produce 80 baby aphids a week! It’s important to carefully examine your plants weekly for the little buggers. They live on the underside of leaves and tend to be found in groups or colonies. If you find them, you can blast them with water, collect and squish them while wearing your favorite garden gloves, or clip off the branch or shoot where they have congregated. These methods are effective with a mild aphid gathering.
 
2) Over Fertilization
 
Be careful not to over fertilize your garden. Since the aphid preys upon the youngest parts of a plant, fertilizers can cause an abundance of new growth. If you do fertilize then it’s best to use fertilizers that release slowly over time.
 
3) Dish Soap to the Rescue!
Another effective method is to use ordinary household dish soap or mild laundry detergent which destroys the aphid’s waxy coating on their bodies causing dehydration. Mix two teaspoons of the soap or detergent into a spray bottle of lukewarm water and spray the leaves once a week.
 
4) Avoid Plants that Aphids Love 
Birch trees are known to attract aphids, so don’t plant your garden near one. A better plan is to plant Queen Anne’s lace, spearmint, or fennel because these are known to attract aphid predators such as ladybugs and lacewings.
 
1/2) Commercial Aphid Insecticides
If all else fails, you can use some commercial insecticides to kill the buggers. Gardeners use insect growth regulators (IGRs), pyretherins, and/or insecticidal soaps. IGRs work in different ways to kill aphids. Some mimic juvenile hormones which prevents the aphid from reproducing. Other IGRs interfere with the production of “chitin” which causes problems with exoskeleton formation. Pytherins are extracted from chrysanthemums and they attack the nervous systems of insects. Finally, insecticidal soap sprays can suffocate the aphid by washing away its protective waxy coating, or the soap sprays can hinder the permeability of the cell membranes. Any of these insecticide types will help dramatically reduce your aphid population.
 
This post is by Justin Rickard, a writer living on the Front Range of Colorado.

Ladybugs Feast on the Most Common Garden Pests: Aphids

Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

The Aphid: A Brutish and Uncivilized Thug

Nasty little creatures called aphids can destroy a lovely garden. These brutish insects hang out in colonies and swarm poor unsuspecting garden plants. They are tiny, about the size of a sharpened pencil tip and their little pear-shaped bodies feed on fragile young leaves, new shoots, and twigs or branches. What’s worse is that while these aphids feed, they leave a residue (often called “aphid honeydew“) on the plants. The residue is a blackish brown color that resembles mold and essentially suffocates a plant leaf preventing it from photosynthesizing properly. The leaves then curl and turn brown. What did your garden ever do to deserve this?

Ladybugs to the Rescue

One natural way to get rid of aphids is to introduce lady bugs into your yard. You could spray aphids in your garden with pesticides, but do you really want to eat produce that has synthetic chemicals on it? Fortunately, the natural world has a provided a mechanism of aphid control for wrestling control over your garden.  The almighty predator of the smarmy aphid is none other than the precious ladybug. The ladybug will provide natural aphid control by feasting upon colonies until its belly is full, and then feast some more. Adult ladybugs can eat up to a 1,000 aphids a day. Not bad for a precious lady.

You Can’t Cage Ladybugs So How Do they Stay in the Garden?

Yes it’s true, ladybugs are fierce aphid predators, but they are also free spirits. Ladybugs like to roam the world in search of the perfect flower where they can have a cup of tea with their friends and swap tall tales of aphid conquests. So, keeping them in your garden is a challenge but not impossible. Here are some tips for keeping the precious ladybugs in your garden:

  • Since ladybugs use the sun for navigation, release them at a time when there is no sun! This means releasing them after the sun sets or before the sun rises.
  • Before you release them water your garden so that they have nice fresh water to drink from.
  • And another thing you can do before you release them is to cool them off in the fridge. This tends to make the ladybugs a bit lethargic and less likely to seek adventure elsewhere so quickly.

Most of your local nurseries have ladybugs for sale or you can buy them online. Treat your garden right this summer – nature’s way!
Please let us know if you have tried ladybugs and what kind of results you got.

This post is by Justin Rickard, a writer living on the Front Range of Colorado.

ArborScape Owner Graduates from the ASCA Academy

Monday, May 10th, 2010

David Merriman just received his certificate of completion from the American Society of Consulting Arborists’ Academy. The program is considered very difficult by tree services. Here is a scan of the certificate.

The next step for him is to complete course work to become an RCA (Registered Consulting Arborist). congrats

Twig Beetle

Monday, May 10th, 2010

Twig beetle bore into pinon pines, conifers and black walnut trees and create colonies. They are a natural pruning agent but can also be the carrier of destructive fungi.

The twig beetle is 1 to 3 mm long with a black or shiny head. To keep it away, pruning dead branches and promoting tree health will help fend off infestations.

1000 Canker Disease Killing Denver’s Walnuts

Monday, May 10th, 2010

Arborists in Colorado are rushing to implement a plan to contain thousand canker within the borders of Colorado. The disease is spread by tiny bark beetles called walnut twig beetles. The thing that you can do is not transport fresh cut black walnut across the state border.  Recently-cut black walnuts can contain tens of thousands of the carrier beetles. Read related article on diagnosing thousand canker

“I think thousand cankers disease has the potential to devastate black walnut just as Dutch elm disease nearly wiped out American elm and chestnut blight eliminated American chestnut,” said Whitney Cranshaw, entomologist at CSU. “Right now it is contained in the West but all it would take is one careless individual moving a walnut log with the beetles and we could have an outbreak that could quickly spiral out of control.”

If thousand canker spreads to the eastern US, it could wipe out swaths of black walnuts causing millions of dollars in damage.

Our arborists have seen walnut kill east of I-25 which is a discouraging sign. In the western US, all black walnut trees descend from human planted growth. But in the eastern US, black walnut is a native species. If thousand canker infects these forests, erosion can damage water quality and threaten nearby homes. 

Colorado State University is sponsoring a survey to identify exactly where infected walnuts are located. Thousand canker is a newly identified disease but there is a consensus that it has been active for the past 15 years on the west slope.

 

Trees in the West Dying at an Alarming Rate

Monday, May 10th, 2010

We were skimming through the Denver Post and noticed this article about new studies showing widespread tree die-off in the intermountain west. Along with new forestation programs in the US and equatorial rainforests of the world, every tree you plant creates more oxygen and eats carbon dioxide.

ASPEN’S LAST STAND? | Mountains of trees dying quickly, mysteriously

"Aspen forests in Colorado and throughout the West are fading from the landscape, dying faster and in more places than previously expected and for reasons scientists don’t understand.

In every Western state, aspen mortality is increasing, U.S. Forest Service ecologists say."  Full article

 

By Electa Draper,
Denver Post Staff Writer

May Tree Care Tips

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

May

  • Mulch around flower and shrub beds to conserve moisture and keep down weeds.
  • Water plants, trees, shrubs and lawn infrequently, but thoroughly.
  • After May 20th, put out annuals and perennials.
  • Spray for Mountain Pine Beetle.
  • Check for Aphids.
  • Fertilize annuals and perennials with fertilizer.
  • Trim trees.
  • Fertilize the lawn.
  • Plant a new tree.
  • Apply Cambisat growth regulator on trees that you want to control growth.
  • Spray for IPS.
  • Spray for Ash Borer.
  • Envirotree fertilization to promote health of tree.
  • Sprinkler Turn On.

April Tree Care for Denver

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

April

  • Prepare to activate the sprinkler system.
  • Aerate and fertilize the lawn, use pre-emerge gent for weed control.
  • Deep root trees and shrubs.
  • Trim trees.
  • Spray for IPS.
  • Check for Aphids.
  • Remove Tree wrap from tree after April 20.
  • Plant summer flowering bulbs.
  • Plant flower.
  • Plant a new tree.
  • Apply Cambistate growth regulator.
  • Cooly Spruce gall.
  • Enviro-tree fertilization to promote health of tree.
  • sprinkler tune up.

March Tree Care and Landscape Tips

Monday, April 26th, 2010

March

  • Prepare yard for the summer use rake leaves Cut rose bushes Cut back perennials.
  • Trim trees.
  • Thin old, overgrown deciduous shrubs.
  • Deep water trees and shrubs as needed.
  • Apply Merit for year long control of leave chewing insect in your deep root fertilizations program.
  • Plant a new tree.
  • Trim trees now for a discount.
  • Trim crabapple and American elm now
  • Winter water small trees and shrubs if needed
  • Check yard for tree and shrub branches that may be damaged by snow
  • Make sure you brush heavy snows from your evergreen branches
  • Start planning for flower, perennial and vegetables
  • Begin weeding those beds not cleaned in fall
  • Schedule deep root watering for large trees if soil not frozen
  • Schedule plug aeration and 1st fertilization for turf
  • Schedule Crabgrass treatment
  • Schedule Plant Health treatments for Ips Beetle, Ash Borer and Pine tip moth
  • Last chance to schedule repair work from winter snow damage

New Spraying Trucks

Saturday, October 10th, 2009

I am very excited about the two new spray trucks we’ve recently purchased and are now outfitting to combat  mountain pine beetle and other pests. The trucks will have pumps that allow us to reach the tops of the tallest trees. For jobs in the high country we will be able to pull two or three hoses to get maximum coverage area in heavily wooded area. This is not something every tree service can offer.

Of course equipment is nothing without knowledge. We have consulting arborists who have reached the highest designations in the arboriculture industry. We also employ two Qualified Supervisors approved by the state of Colorado Dept of Agriculture for pesticide application. Check out our qualifications further.

Finally, while we’ve been preventing IPS, mountain pine and other beetles and insects successfully  on the Front Range for years I feel it’s time to start serving mountain communities as well. I want to emphasize that while spraying is important,  good tree health care begins with supporting healthy and stressed trees through deep root fertilization, winter watering and bark fertilizer applications using Envirotree. In my 20 years experience, I’ve learned that healthier trees fend off insects and part of our mountain pine beetle treatments will always include promoting the systemic health of a tree. 

Thanks,  David